Saturday, September 3, 2011

Jim Davenport's Pizza Palace

Mountain Brook, AL
$9-$15 Entrees

A Southerner by birth, Jim Davenport spent twelve years as a star third-baseman for the San Francisco Giants. He still works in the Giants' front office at the age of 78! Perhaps more important than his accomplishments on the field, Jim is best known for his loyalty to the Giants and to his friends.

One of those friends, an Alabamian named Rex Hollis, befriended Davenport in California. In 1964, Hollis returned to Alabama to open Jim Davenport’s Pizza Palace … with the permission of Mr. Davenport, who hoped his name recognition would boost Mr. Hollis’s pizza sales.

It worked. Davenport's has now been open for 47 years.

This busy, thriving eatery in the heart (and hearts) of Mountain Brook Village enjoys tremendous customer loyalty and a casual atmosphere. Regulars relish the simplicity of this traditional pizza joint, where the menus are printed on pizza peels, the large, wooden, tray-like spatulas the chefs use to lift pizzas in and out of the stainless steel ovens, the warmth captured by transparent partitions. Davenport’s remains a cool refuge from summer’s inferno.

The dark green walls sports not only a pale mural of Venice, but also memorabilia collected over the decades, from a framed Giants’ jersey to antique magazine covers of Ginger Rogers and Ronald Reagan. The collectibles are viewed by the dim light of the small, red oil lamps resting on the red and white tablecloths on each table. Although Davenport’s always has a steady stream of customers, it never feels crowded, and the service is fast. If you have the time, try to beat the high score on one of the eight vintage video games lining the wall, including, of course, Mrs. P
acman.


Realistically, a pizza joint that’s lasted for 47 years has to have good pizza – and Davenport’s does not disappoint. The simple menu offers traditional toppings on pizzas available in small (9”), medium (12”) and large (15”) sizes. No exotic ingredients here and no surprises. This pizza is not a flashy, new acquaintance, but an old, tried-and true friend.


Customers can choose between the Meat Lover’s Special with pepperoni, ham and sausage; the Rex Special with sausage, onions and green peppers; the Jim Special with beef, pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, onions and green peppers; and the Veggie Special with mushrooms, onions and green peppers. Some may choose to get creative with the Build Your Own option, selecting any of the above ingredients, as well as extra cheese, bacon, black olives, green olives, jalapenos, pineapple, banana peppers, Roma tomatoes and anchovies.


No matter which toppings you choose, you will receive a hot pizza with a thin, crunchy crust and a generous amou
nt of chewy, mozzarella cheese. You’ll enjoy salad and drinks with your pizzas. The house garden salad includes tomatoes, pepperoncini peppers, black olives, bacon and croutons. Draft beer and wine are both available.


All in all, Davenport’s certainly has a peel. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist!) The secret to
Davenport’s longevity is the same simple, traditional enjoyment one might feel when watching a baseball game. Have one meal there, and you’ll understand the anonymous quote found on a sign by the front entrance: “I’ve spent most of my money on beer and pizza. The rest I’ve just wasted.”

3.5 Kudzu

No comments:

Post a Comment