$8-$14 Entrees
Acclaimed in several national publications, Chez Lulu doesn’t need another food critic praising their cuisine or another customer recommending them to their friends. Well, Chez Lulu, I’m doing it anyway.
For those who missed French 101, Chez Lulu means: “an enclave of European scrumptiousness”. Carole Griffin, who started Continental Bakery, Chez Lulu’s next-door parent company, with encouragement and funding from her grandmother, introduced the concept … and croissants … to Birmingham 27 years ago. Chez Lulu began charming customers in 1995. For Ms. Griffin, it’s all about the bread. She says, “Chez Lulu was born of my desire to showcase the beautiful artisanal breads we were creating … and to share with Birmingham my own passion for the flavors and spirit of French café society.” Chez Lulu is actually a euphemism for a French bordello, one example of owner Carole Griffin’s insouciant, Monty Pythonesque sense of humor. Another is “Springalingadingdong”, the annual May festival sponsored by Continental Bakery, which includes hula-hoop and costume contests, a bread toss, parade, and reenactment of Marie Antoinette’s execution by guillotine.
The atmosphere is not for the claustrophobic, yet it has a certain je ne sais quoi. A gorgeous, cozy hodgepodge of saffron and multicolored lights, crowned with a ceiling in a ruby tincture, it resembles a complex coat of arms. One twists and turns around hand-made iron tables, crushed velvet pillows, paintings of European landscapes and swag lamps to arrive at the luxurious chaise lounge in the restroom, awarded Best Bathroom by Birmingham Weekly.
But don’t let the interior mosaic fool you. This authentic bistro has clearly defined priorities: remaining active Slow Food members, supporting local farmers who use time-honored growing methods, serving fresh, seasonal produce, creating European breads from scratch, employing traditional, stone hearth baking methods, and using only the finest natural ingredients. This restaurant attracts a cosmopolitan, sophisticated clientele, some of whom are canine. The latter are welcome to dine al fresco with their owners at comfortable tables under cooling red umbrellas. The wait staff is extremely knowledgeable about the cuisine and prepared to answer questions with aplomb.
The innovative menu is French with Spanish and Italian influences. Beautiful music is made with imported and local ingredients in Gallic recipes. Although many enjoy the kalamata olive tapenade, my favorite appetizer is the “Cheeze” Lulu, a platter of Brie, chevre, Gorgonzola and sliced fruit. On the day I dined, one soup du jour was a chilled gazpacho, difficult to find this side of the Atlantic. Chez Lulu is famous for their chicken salad, accented with French tarragon, finished with fresh-squeezed lemon and served on the artisanal bread of one’s choice.
Francophiles will love the tarte du jour, served in a homemade butter crust. My choices were zucchini and red bell pepper or southwestern corn; however, tarte recipes change seasonally. La Doba a la Nissarda (Daube Nicoise), a classic stew invented in Nice, is made with tender beef simmered in red wine with wild mushrooms and vegetables. In France, beef from bullfights was traditionally used; however, Chez Lulu uses only grass-fed, hormone-free beef. For dessert, don’t pass up the delicate pear-almond tarte glazed with apricot.
If you want a Sunday kind of love, go to brunch at Chez Lulu. French cherry preserves are married with Alabama goat cheese and blanketed in springy, golden crepes. For a savory crepe, try the ham with Mornay sauce. Want chi-chi with substance? Order the steel-cut oatmeal with banana brulee. A variety of creations from the bakery are available, including French brioche and custard buns, Belgian chocolate croissants and pain de campagne, a 4½-pound sourdough that takes 48 hours to prepare. Chez Lulu serves Continental Bakery’s private blend of coffee, as well as specialty nonalcoholic drinks. Alcoholic beverages are served after noon and include Chez Lulu’s mimosa and homemade Bloody Mary.
Chez Lulu opens for Sunday brunch and on Tuesdays through Sundays for lunch and dinner. In keeping with the whimsical sense of fun, periodical live entertainment is available, such as belly dancers, accordion players and Spanish guitarists. The word “standout” has two definitions: 1) something remarkably superior to others; and 2) someone conspicuous due to refusal to conform to the majority’s actions or opinions. Chez Lulu embodies them both.
5 Kudzu
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