Monday, May 24, 2010

DePalma's Italian Cafe

Tuscaloosa, AL
$8-$19 Entrees

On the day on which my husband and I found out we were pregnant, we celebrated our bundle of joy-to-be by going to DePalma's (this was before the morning sickness set in and I couldn't even eat Saltines). Located in an old-fashioned building in downtown Tuscaloosa, DePalma's has a charming interior characterized by high ceilings and walls the color of warm, comforting Campbell's tomato soup. Wine bottles line the wall behind the booths and an antique pharmacy sign is displayed over the bar. The eye is drawn to advertisements for old films. The air is cool and refreshing, thanks to the ceiling fans rotating high above. A small oil lamp on each table adds a romantic touch.

DePalma's is usually packed and bustling at lunch but more relaxed at supper. Be sure to come when you can stay for about an hour and a half. The service is not slow, but it is important to take the time to savor a drink, an antipasto, an insalata, an entree, a dessert, and a cappuccino ... at least! After all, when in Rome ...

DePalma's tends to use fresh produce, herbs, and cheeses in their recipes. If you are a bold eater and wish to sample a variety of savories, order the antipasto platter: artichoke hearts, parmesan, proscuitto, zucchini, olives, red onions, and fresh mozzarella. The mixed greens and tomato salad may sound simplistic; but add their creamy gorgonzola dressing (featuring fresh black pepper), and it becomes simply irresistible.

In addition to their developed menu, DePalma's offers creative daily specials, which always include a unique lasagna recipe. I ordered my usual, the pine nut encrusted salmon. (Doesn't that phrase just give you a little thrill? Like the phrase "rosemary cream sauce." Ooooo!) The salmon was cooked perfectly, flaky, yet not dry in the least. Topped with capers and melted mascarpone cheese, it was enticing.

DePalma's pizzas are quite popular. Although they take extra time to bake, it may be worth it to have fresh, hand-tossed dough. They offer the typical pizza with marinara sauce, as well as white pizza (olive oil, fresh garlic, cream, and parmesan), such as the Milano, which also features sun-dried tomatoes, portabella mushrooms, roasted red onions, fresh sage, and pancetta (an Italian bacon).

If you like dessert, try DePalma's white chocolate bread pudding. It is crispy and gooey and warm and creamy and decadent all at the same time. However, I wish they would leave off the superfluous chocolate and strawberry sauce, drizzling only the white chocolate sauce. Cappuccino, the foam topped with a pinch of cinnamon, is served in a proper cappuccino cup with a dainty demitasse spoon. The Southern belle in me approved.

DePalma's has a quite respectable list of Italian and Californian wines. They also serve a nectarous bellini (which means "pretty" in Italian), made with pureed white peaches and prosecco.

With so many delicacies to try, an atmosphere in which to linger, and an attentive waitstaff, DePalma's is the dell'ape ginocchia ... the bee's knees!

4 Kudzu


Sunday, May 23, 2010

GW's Family Restaurant and Steak House

Hueytown, AL
$8-$15 Entrees

In the heart of Hueytown, AL is a small community. This community is not based on politics, religion, or income bracket. It is centered on the good, country cooking to be found at GW's Family Restaurant and Steakhouse. GW's is a meat and three by day but transforms into a steak and karaoke extravaganza by night. No matter what time you arrive, you will be warmly welcomed by a hospitable waitress and perhaps the owner himself. The decor is as country as the cooking. An artificial Christmas tree stays up year round. A largemouth bass peers down at the diners from his place of honor. A homey quilt adorns the wall. I saw this as an auspicious sign of the comfort food to come.

At age 17, my husband was once pulled over for going 34 in a 30 in Decatur, AL. The officer said, "Where are you going in such a hurry, son?" My husband said, "My 101-year-old great-grandmother is cooking Sunday lunch, and if I'm late, she'll kill me!" The officer scoffed, disbelievingly, and wrote out the ticket. The thing is, my husband was telling the truth (although he was not murdered that day). Mrs. Annie Rochelle cooked a massive, weekly Sunday lunch with love until the year she passed at 101. I did not meet her myself, but I imagine her cooking was much like that found at GW's.

Each day, the owner and staff (and any early customers who would like to join in) hold hands and say grace before the first plate of the day is served. A large, open Bible rests on a side table. The eyeglasses placed upon it signify that this Bible is actually read, unlike the dusty tomes found in many homes. For lunch, try the fried chicken, delicious dressing, and Italian flat beans. Their fluffy cornbread is literally the best I have ever had (sorry, Mom). However, GW's is BYOB (Bring Your Own Butter); they only serve bottled margarine. Now, I have this thing for instant mashed potatoes. The only bright spot in the harrowing experience of recovering from wisdom teeth extraction was the mass quantities of instant mashed potatoes I was allowed to consume. GW's serves instant mashed potatoes (collective gasp). But I'm not going to be the one to knock off a kudzu for it. Top off your feast with their cherry cream cheese pie ... Y'all. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven.

If you want a quiet dinner, go on Monday or Tuesday. If you want live entertainment (or, like me, you have a burning desire to sing "Sweet Child O' Mine"), go on Friday (Gospel Karaoke Night) or Saturday (Rock Karaoke Night). The steak is okay. The salad is okay. The oregano ranch dressing, however, is addictive. I took some home with me and wailed the next day upon discovering I'd left it in my purse, unrefrigerated.

No matter what their excellent qualities, no matter what their shortcomings, a diner at this restaurant will quickly realize that each customer, no matter who, is welcomed and served with love. Each customer will also leave as full as a tick. And that's something to be proud of.

3 Kudzu

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Urban Standard

Birmingham, AL
$6-$9 Entrees

Located in the recently gentrified 2nd Avenue North area of downtown Birmingham is a trendy confection of a restaurant. Urban Standard is more than a restaurant, however. The vintage art, lamps, furniture, and maps this cafe sells make the atmosphere captivating. Cleverly restructured antique, household items line the original, interior brick walls. These walls rise to meet a high ceiling, lending each conversation a pleasant echo.

The routine is informal. Order with the taciturn waiter at the counter, and have a seat. Your meal will be brought to you in a timely manner. The Grilled Chicken Panino (when I read the rare, but correct singular spelling of this word, I heard a faint Hallelujah chorus) features Tanglewood Farms (read: all natural) chicken breast, smoked bacon, caramelized onion, and goat cheese. It comes with balsamic jam, which tastes of grape and vinegar, two flavors I would not have thought would compliment each other so well. The panino was grilled and crispy and creamy in the middle. Yum. It came with a side of marinated broccoli, which was sweet and slightly steamed.

I also had the Roasted Fennel Salad. I love to try new things, but somehow, had escaped the distinctive ingredient of fennel throughout my life. I decided to taste it. It was, as advertised, roasted, with the internal consistency of baked eggplant, the external appearance of artichoke hearts, and a black licorice aftertaste. I thought, "I don't like it. Wait, yes I do. Wait, no I don't." But I couldn't stop eating it, as it instilled a sort of fascination. The rest of the salad was decidedly delicious, with mixed greens, pine nuts, and goat cheese (can you tell I like goat cheese?). It was served with honey lemon vinaigrette, complete with a Dijon piquancy.

Dessert consisted of a lovely latte with an average scone. However, the lemon creme fraiche elevated the humble cinnamon scone to new heights of gastronomical ecstasy. I was ever so pleased with it. I was ever so pleased with the final price tag, too.

4 Kudzu