Tuesday, April 5, 2011

The Pita Stop

Birmingham, AL (Cahaba Heights) $8-$12 Entrees The Pita Stop ... sounds like a small stand for take-out gyros. The name might lead first-time customers to greatly underestimate the experience they will receive, one of casual elegance and gastronomical excellence.

Many Birmingham natives know the original Pita Stop opened over 30 years ago in Southside. Recently, however, a second location opened in Cahaba Heights. Many second locations have inauspicious beginnings. Not so The Pita Stop. This Mediterranean restaurant, whose food hails more from the Middle East than from Greece, is perfection. Shining through cambered windows, sunlight falls on neutral walls and simple tables accented with stemmed beverage glasses. The ambiance is understated, from the wine racks at the front of the restaurant to the nicely tiled floor. The Pita Stop offers outdoor seating, where one can listen to the patio fountain, the home of several enchanting goldfish. The servers are as professional as they appear in their white buttondowns and black bow ties. Meals are served promptly, with attention to detail.

The menu is concise, yet varied, offering a full range of dishes from appetizers to specialty entrees and desserts. Although the prices seemed reasonable, little did I guess how reasonable, considering the high-quality, generous servings. The Pita Stop's website states, "Only the finest meats and freshest vegetables, which come fresh from the farmers' market, find their way into our kitchen." My dining companion noted the trouble taken to find red, tasty tomatoes simply to garnish our appetizer. Beef and rice, rolled into tangy grape leaves, was perfectly cooked in tomato sauce until the rice expanded, creating tension. This tension holds each roll together firmly, enabling it to be dipped in Greek yogurt. The presentation was lovely, the fresh tomatoes and cucumbers embellishing the circular pattern of the rolls.

Every selection reflects attention to quality and aesthetics. My entree was accompanied by the only properly prepared tabouli I've encountered at a restaurant. The fresh parsley and mint didn't overpower its texture; rather, they balanced the bulgur wheat and fresh, chopped tomato and cucumber. Mixed with olive oil, enlivened with lemon juice, touched with pepper and topped with red onion, radish, banana pepper, feta and a dainty kalamata olive ... the tabouli was consummately authentic.

My Lebanese father-in-law taught me to make kibbeh, meaning "ball" and pronounced "kibby". He stressed selecting a cut of beef of the highest quality (although lamb is sometimes used). The beef is ground and mixed with garlic, pine nuts, softened bulgur wheat and a touch of cinnamon, a spice underappreciated in this country. Kibbeh is usually baked; however, when made at home, it's sometimes eaten raw like steak tartare and dipped in melted butter. At The Pita Stop, kibbeh is delivered in the form of a four-inch-high wedge accompanied by Greek yogurt. It's served with soft pita to dip in smooth, creamy hommos, sprinkled with paprika. Cantaloupe, pineapple and orange slices colorfully adorned the entree.

Order the almond tiramisu for dessert, a moist, light amaretto cake layered with mascarpone and topped with sliced almonds. It was delightful and satisfying. (That's a restaurant critic's way of saying "It was so good, I would've eaten it out of the trash!") Try the rich, strong Turkish coffee, steaming in a winsome, glazed espresso cup.

The Pita Stop welcomes catering orders, serves alcoholic beverages and offers several off-menu items, including filet mignon, shrimp kabobs and their famous rack of lamb. If you want gorgeous food styling, high-quality ingredients, abundant portions, modest prices, tasteful atmosphere and excellent service, this is the place to stop.

5 Kudzu