$18-$34 Entrees
Kozy's is easy to miss. A humble, white house, which appears deceptively small from the street, people drive past every day without noticing it. They are missing out.
After passing the gardenia bushes at the entrance, I was struck by unexpected interior elegance. Although the arresting black walls are not conducive to ambient light, the restaurant glows with candlelight. Having made a reservation, I was seated immediately at a black-swathed table with comfortable, black leather seating, much as one might find in a pipe tobacco-scented British study. Although intimate, the restaurant is airy, due to the revolving fans on the plum-colored ceiling.
My kind and accommodating waiter, Richard, proffered Kozy's thorough wine list. I ordered the 2007 Chateau la Rame Bordeaux on his recommendation. ("It is beautiful," he said with fervor.) As I was spending the same amount on a glass that I normally spend on a bottle of wine, I was dubious. But as the ruby liquid trickled blissfully down my throat, I thought, "This is worth every penny." Full bodied yet accessible, I could feel the alcoholic sachet of black currants and ripe cherries filling my sinuses. The Bordeaux cured my cold.
After Richard ceremoniously described Kozy's special, I reviewed the other menu options. You would think that a filet au poivre with a cognac cream sauce paired with a lobster tail with a molasses brown butter over sauteed spinach and mashed potatoes, would be a no-brainer, but I deliberated longer than a jury during a murky murder trial. I felt light-headed, swaying between brie-stuffed chicken breast, lamb with a pomegranate demi-glace, and roasted maple leaf duck breast, finally ordering the special.
Richard brought me a crusty loaf of bread, which was white and velvety on the inside ... and some cold butter. You know when butter stays too long in the fridge and starts to absorb the odors of the other foods? In other words, it was not fresh. A restaurant of Kozy's caliber should invest in fresh, whipped, unsalted butter to go with their satisfying bread.
I could almost hear fanfare as my entree arrived. I cut into the tender filet with a stylish steak knife and tasted. The filet was perfectly medium-rare and punctuated by the cracked black pepper. But the only words to describe the cognac cream sauce are exclusively found in scintillating, cheap romance novels (and only in the good chapters), and I don't think this paper will print those kinds of words. My only complaint was that there wasn't more of it. The succulent lobster was sweetened by the hint of molasses. The sauteed spinach was mildly nutty, and the mashed red potatoes (skins included, the way I like it) were creamy and perfectly salted. I ate in slow motion.
Due to toddler-related challenges in my personal life, I was, regrettably, not able to finish my entree at Kozy's. After paying a king's ransom, I took it home, and my (pleasantly surprised) spouse and I split the sumptuous meal in an impromptu candlelit dinner.Setting aside Kozy's prices (which gleefully ignore today's economic recession), on their own merit, I can recommend the following. The Louisiana Gulf oysters with bearnaise sauce hors d'oeuvre is lovely. My favorite salad at Kozy's is the spinach with lardons (read: bacon), candied pecans, shaved red onion, and creamy Maytag (read: bleu cheese) peppercorn dressing. During autumn, you will enjoy the spaghetti squash with zucchini, red onions, carrots, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and cheeses baked in white wine garlic butter.
No matter what you order at Kozy's, you will leave with your pocketbook lighter, but as satisfied as a cat that's had high-quality, organic cream to its supper.
4.5 Kudzu
