Jerusalem Cafe

Mobile, AL
$11-$15 Entrees

Every once in a while, I stumble upon a gem of a restaurant in an unprepossessing location with an uninspiring exterior. This restaurant may not have a platinum setting, but it is a VVSI diamond in the rough.

Jerusalem Cafe is located on Airport Boulevard in a humble strip mall, surrounded by (shudder) garish chain restaurants. However, the interior atmosphere is elegant and serene with Middle Eastern tapestries, comfortable seating, and white tablecloths. The service is as flawlessly polished as the presentation.

My friend, Wendi, and I took our repast at Jerusalem Cafe on a weekday. We split the Jerusalem Dinner Feast, which is certainly enough for two, and offers a sampling of mezzah and entrees, as well as dessert. We each started with a house salad, which featured a refreshing, enticing dressing redolent of citrus, white vinegar, and white pepper. Wendi and I each ordered a bottle to take home.

The hummus was delightfully heavy on the tahini and lemon. The baba ganouj was creamy and mild. Tender and with a gentle flavor, the stuffed grape leaves did not taste too pickled like so many tend to do. The felafel was spicy, but not overly so. Wendi aptly described its flavor as "earthy." (She is a true poet and should be a food critic, too!)

I will now make a brave statement: The tabouli was even better than my father-in-law's. There, I've said it. Perfectly measured parts of tomatoes and cucumbers, with a hint of lemon juice to cut the pungency of the fresh parsley. (I hope my in-laws do not disown me, but I must maintain my journalistic integrity.)

The beef tenderloin kabobs just melted in our mouths and were complimented by a subdued yogurt sauce. The squash, grilled with olive oil, was tender, yet crisp. The ambrosial baklava was hot and buttery with a balmy aroma ... perhaps of rosewater?

After this exquisite experience, Wendi and I were completely tamed. We langourously lingered over coffee, never once feeling rushed by our lovely waiter. I may have to relocate to Mobile, just so I can eat at Jerusalem Cafe twice a day for the rest of my life.

5 Kudzu