Tuesday, October 12, 2010

The Silvertron Cafe

Birmingham, AL
$8-$11 Lunch and Dinner Entrees
$5-$7 Breakfast Entrees

I've never been a breakfast person. I just don't want to eat anything in the morning. Granted, I'll strap on the feed bag any time after 12:00 p.m., but prior to that ... no appetite. Then I read that The Silvertron Cafe won Birmingham Weekly's "Best Breakfast" in 2009. I said, "Ha! We'll see about that!"

The Silvertron Cafe, named for the television repair shop from which it was converted, first opened in 1986. Its first owner, Alan Potts was beloved by the local community. After his tragic death in 2006, the restaurant closed temporarily, reopening in 2007 under its current owner, Marco Morosini.

I went to Silvertron on a Saturday morning. Walking through Birmingham's historic Forest Park district, I enjoyed the "football weather", as cool as the other side of the pillow. White lights, which must provide a winsome twinkle at night, were strung under the front awning. Inside, I first noticed the artwork, pieces sold by Silvertron's neighbor, the Naked Art Gallery. My favorites were the vivid, folksy paintings by Tina Kirk, which provide an eclectic, unpretentious feel to the retro atmosphere. Built during the 1920's, the building's high, embossed tin ceilings, hanging fans and intricate crown molding transported me back to a gentler, simpler time. Accent walls provided splashes of color reminiscent of ripe watermelon. I sat by windows lined with slender, cobalt blue glass bottles. Listening to Otis Redding hits, my heart rate slowed to a 1964 pace. This was a place for lingering.

The service was prompt and the menu impressive. Silvertron diverges from the commonplace, offering hummus, quiche, and lasagna specials daily. Exploring my brunch menu, I noted Silvertron's affordability and diverse selection, the stress of the current recession falling away. The menu listed several creative variations on the typical Eggs Benedict, as if the word "typical" could ever do this chef d'oeuvre justice. These included Florentine, South-Western, Crab & Shrimp Cake, Yellowfin Tuna, and Steak Benedict. Although tempted by the traditional New Orleans dish, Grillades & Grits, I decided I wasn't hungry enough for such a large meal. So I ordered the Crab & Shrimp Cake Benedict. And a side sausage patty. And a biscuit. Oh, and an order of "fancy grits".

Since childhood, I have bewailed restaurants' inability to properly poach an egg. It is risky to order them, as they usually turn out either undercooked or overcooked, both of which are disgusting. The Silvertron Cafe, however, has evidently perfected the art of poaching an egg. Those perching atop the croquettes boasted golden, creamy yolks enveloped in firm whites. The generous crab and shrimp cakes were outstanding, made colorful by fresh red peppers and celery. Although initially dubious when reading "Creole hollandaise" on the menu, the reality made me a believer. Not for the faint-of-taste-bud, this delectable sauce revealed a kick in the form of fiery, ground red pepper. It took a great deal of self-control not to lick the plate. With all this pizazz, the humble English muffin at the bottom seemed superfluous.

The sausage was mild yet flavorful, and the golden biscuit was so buttery it didn't need butter (did I really say something didn't need butter?!). However, the "fancy grits" surpassed them both. Coarsely ground but cooked to creaminess, they were mixed with cheese, bacon, cheese, tomatoes, and cheese.

Mimosas and Bloody Marys are featured during breakfast and Sunday brunch. With pasta and wine specials on Mondays, Tex-Mex and Margarita specials on Tuesdays, and Martini specials on Wednesdays, this cafe definitely has something for everyone. For a dose of retro goodness at a price that can't be beat, eat at The Silvertron Cafe. I promise you'll get more than you'll pay for.

4.5 Kudzu










No comments:

Post a Comment