Saturday, March 12, 2011

The Silver Coin Indian Grill

Hoover, AL
$8-$14 Entrees
$8 Lunch Buffet

A beautifully painted statue of the Hindu god, Ganesha, "Remover of Obstacles", greets guests as they walk into The Silver Coin, a lovely Indian restaurant in Hoover. Ganesha’s elephant trunk and a beautiful hostess welcomed me to a place of fragrant spices, saffron walls, ethereal music and exotic cuisine. Romantic, sequined Indian fabric prints shimmered through Silver Coin’s elegant glass tabletops. The scent of incense relaxed me as I read their extensive menu, offering dishes representative of every region of India. A dizzying number of dishes met my eye. Luckily, it was lunchtime, and Silver Coin’s buffet, replete with several of the menu selections, provided me with a sampling of these ancient recipes.


The buffet featured naan, a white, pillowy bread in all its pleasingly chewy glory. At Silver Coin, naan can be ordered baked with garlic, cheese, rosemary, peppers, or cherries and nuts. Naan can also be stuffed with lamb, potatoes, onions or spinach.


A tandoor is a cylindrical clay oven, which bakes many Indian meat dishes on a charcoal or wood fire burning within the tandoor itself. Silver Coin’s tandoori chicken, colorful in its traditionally festive red, was redolent of the char-grilled flavor of a thousand summers. The chicken karahi was spicy, yet forgiving, and served with softened green peppers in a rich sauce as aromatic as sandalwood. Silver Coin’s meat curries and rice entrees may be ordered either with chicken, lamb, goat or seafood. Although many Indian entrees are hot and spicy, you can always cut this sizzle with a little raita, a cooling yogurt and mint dip.


Silver Coin’s vegetarian items are as satisfying as their meat dishes. The vegetable korma, a mix of fresh cauliflower, lima beans, carrots, green beans and zucchini stirred into a rich, buttery sauce, was best served over tender basmati rice, which was punctuated by cilantro and caraway seeds. The pakoras, fritters interwoven with fennel leaves, onion and spinach, were as crispy as tempura and just as satiating. Fresh green beans were cooked with black mustard seeds and golden lentils, creating a wholesome combination. Silver Coin’s chefs are nothing if not flexible; any dish can be made vegan upon request, not always an easy feat.


Silver Coin offers a number of traditional Indian desserts. My favorite is kheer, a creamy, chilled rice pudding made with sugar and cardamom, that most alluring of spices. Even the children’s menu is enticing, offering American selections, but also dosa, a sweet, crisp crepe in this case cooked in ghee (clarified butter), candied and served with vanilla ice cream. Adults and children alike will love the mango lassi, a vibrant, smoothie-like dessert made with rich yogurt, pureed mango and heavy cream.


With gracious service, reasonable prices, no less than 38 cocktails and both imported and domestic beers on the menu, The Silver Coin is just as tempting in the evening as at lunchtime. It is no coincidence a statue of Ganesha, the god of success, graces the entrance to this gem of a restaurant.


4.5 Kudzu