Miss Rosemarie's Special Teas Salon & Shoppe

Birmingham, AL
$9-$15 Entrees

Throughout history, there has been no substance as unifying and as divisive as tea. Tea, that fragrant, comforting infusion over which engagements have been sealed and wars have been instigated, has persisted for centuries in countries spanning the globe. Even Americans, for all their pride in the Boston Tea Party, are not immune to tea's charms. The customers at Miss Rosemarie's are no exception.

Miss Rosemarie's boasts an elegantly appointed, patrician interior. A lace tablecloth and a different pattern of fine china is laid on each antique table, along with silver tea accessories and fresh flowers. The restaurant is wallpapered in a damask pattern with hand-painted gold edging. The decor seems best suited to a Victorian mansion; however, the salon is located conveniently in a shopping center. Serving a niche market, Miss Rosemarie's has been successful for five years.

Just as there is a ritual to the traditional tea ceremony, there is a correct procedure to follow if one wishes a table at Miss Rosemarie's. One should make a reservation the morning before the day one wishes to take tea. The next day, unlike the White Rabbit, be on time. If one chooses to walk in without a reservation, like Alice, one will likely have to wait for one's tea. As with most things in life, I learned this the hard way. Miss Rosemarie's is usually so full, I can almost hear the Mad Hatter and March Hare shouting, "No room! No room!" Luckily, Miss Rosemarie's is more hospitable.

Miss Rosemarie's is open Tuesdays through Fridays from 11:00 to 3:00 and Saturdays from 11:00 to 2:00. One may order only tea and scones during the last hour on these days. The salon is open for brunch on Sundays from 10:00 to 2:00. The salon is closed on Mondays.

Along with a dizzying attention to detail in both the menu and service, as well as eminently reasonable prices for quality, a customer at Miss Rosemarie's will find an astounding variety of fresh ingredients combined to form original and beautifully presented delights. Like the riddle "Why is a raven like a writing-desk?," (to which Lewis Carroll admitted there is no answer), Miss Rosemarie's rich and ever-changing menu appears to be simple, but in reality, is quite complex. However, if one chooses to navigates these complexities, fortune will favor that diner with an incredible culinary experience.

Miss Rosemarie's offers no less than 60 distinct teas and tisanes (infusions of herbs or fruit, rather than tea leaves). For those who would prefer an iced tea, Miss Rosemarie's serves a refreshing iced black tea with raspberry syrup. Miss Rosemarie's menu displays four complete tea options. I recommend the first and most elaborate, Miss Rosemarie's Special Tea, which includes one scone (served with the accoutrements of jam, lemon curd, and faux clotted cream), one slice of quiche, one cup of soup, your choice of three tea sandwiches, "trio desserts," and one pot of tea. This quarter, for example, the group of four unique tea sandwiches include: the roasted pepper, mint, and goat cheese mini wrap; the pimiento cheese, turkey, tomato, and lettuce; the eggplant caviar crostini; and the almond chicken salad. This season, the group of desserts comprising the "trio desserts" include: a lemon cheesecake chocolate cup, a mini ice cream sandwich, and a dreamsicle cupcake.

Jake's Special Benedict, in which eggs rest on crab cakes instead of English muffins, and Nathan's French toast, which is made with vanilla bean custard, are two of the most enticing brunch options. For lunch, I recommend Amy's Choice, which includes: one quiche, one soup, or one crepe. One may order either two or all three of these, which come with either spring mix or Caesar salad. One may also wish to sample one of the salon's creative chicken salads, which include: Curried Orange Cranberry Chicken, Chicken Waldorf, and Almond Chicken. As for dessert, I especially enjoyed the scoop of vanilla bean ice cream rolled in gingerbread. It tasted like Christmas.

I first became optimistic when I breathed in the sachet of English Breakfast tea, stirred it with a Lilliputian demitasse spoon, and felt in purl down my throat. Down the rabbit hole I went. I was undone by the crumbly, buttery peach mango scone with ephemeral faux clotted cream and tart lemon curd. The smoked ham, green onion, and white cheddar quiche was properly and dreamily fluffy. The creamy French onion soup arrived in a lovely china teacup. I took the first taste eagerly and the rest reverently. The chilled raspberry peach soup was velvety and suffused with a lovely amaretto flavor. The spring mix salad had a piquant, slightly spicy vinaigrette. However, the highlight of the meal was the delicate crepe with lump crab meat and authentic hollandaise.

"Round went the clock in a twinkling" and before I knew it, Miss Rosemarie's was closing and my adventure was at an end. Comatose with delicacies, I was as sleepy as the Dormouse and smiling like the Cheshire Cat. So sit up straight, crook your pinkie, and order as many selections as you can. After all, as the Mad Hatter noted, "you can't take less ... it's very easy to take more than nothing."

5 Kudzu

Lovoy's

Birmingham, AL $7-$16 Entrees A restaurant critic on a diet ... what a contradiction! Reminds me of another contradiction from the movie Fried Green Tomatoes: "assertiveness training for Southern women." Nevertheless, I can't avoid the ugly truth: I have gained 13 pounds since becoming a restaurant critic. Embarking on this adventure, my mother advised: "Do what professional restaurant critics do ... taste just enough of each dish to assess the food." However, I knew I couldn't be happy that way ... So I ate. And I ate. And now, I'm on Weight Watchers. With a Points Finder and a stack of Smart Ones, I fondly reminisce about my most recent foray into the jungles of the restaurant industry. Ahhhhh ... Lovoy's. Memories of that meal will sustain me through the next 6.5 weeks (that's at losing two pounds per week). Fans report Lovoy's first location left something to be desired: windows. The dark, close interior was once described by a friend as "mob-friendly" (i.e. "very little lighting"). Notwithstanding, Lovoy's has enjoyed a loyal clientele for over 40 years because of their fabulous food. Entrare 2010. Lovoy's new, posh location in Homewood's Soho Square exudes a simple elegance of which Armani would approve. By day, impossibly high ceilings create a spacious interior naturally lit by cambered picture windows. Sconces provide lighting in the evening, when people gather at the curved bar. Lovoy's enchanting outdoor patio is accented with neutral umbrellas and potted flowers. One would think all this atmosphere would come with a catch. However, the reasonable prices, experienced staff, and menu all remain unchanged, and now, they offer free valet parking. This seems too good to be true ... or at least, too good to last. Lovoy's wine list is comprised of domestic reds and whites, selections from Australia, Germany, and Italy, and two Champagnes sold by the bottle. The Italian Mezzacorna Pinot Grigio was crisp but somehow anticlimactic. I replaced it with the Hogue Reisling. Wine snobs may scoff at a twist-cap wine, but it was fantastic. Delicately sweet, it converted me from a confirmed Chateau St. Michelle fan. The appetizers likewise improved with practice. Specifically, the calamari was bland, but wait! The Baked Oysters Lovoy were to-die-for. These tender morsels are baked in the shells on which they are served. Devouring every last one with the Lilliputian oyster fork, savoring each buttery Italian bread crumb, I longed for the next bite while still relishing the first. Delectable tossed green salad followed, mixing field greens with fresh spinach and cherry tomatoes, topped by Lovoy's peerless bleu cheese dressing. The shrimp fettuccine Alfredo was perfectly executed. An Alfredo saucier myself, I believe they nailed the sauce. The stuffed shells, meat-filled pasta sachets topped with a light marinara, were thoroughly satisfying. The chicken Tommaso was the only entree to disappoint. The tender chicken was in harmony with mushrooms and white wine, but the lemon butter sauce was short on butter! The notable food writer, Nora Ephron, was born Jewish, but is not particularly religious. In a 2009 interview, she told NPR, "You can never have too much butter - that is my belief. If I have a religion, that's it." On a positive note, Lovoy's cheesecake is presented in a tony Z-stem martini glass, scooped, not sliced. Described in the menu as "light" (another contradiction!), the sinfully rich cheesecake fortunately belies its advertisement. I now rely on you, gentle reader, to carry on my tradition of gluttony by patronizing Lovoy's while I weep at the table while picking at microwaved rigatoni with faux chicken and insubstantial Alfredo sauce ... Until 6.5 weeks from now. 4 Kudzu

V. Richards

Birmingham, AL
$8-$12 Entrees

V. Richards, a lovely, diminutive grocery store and cafe in Birmingham, AL, must secretly install homing devices in the back of the neck of each of its customers, because I keep coming back ... over and over again. However, each time I return, the menu is different from the last. The decidedly gourmet cafe, located in the back of the market (where one can purchase everything from quail eggs to British digestives) is a haven for us homing pigeons.

Each day, the cafe serves breakfast, which may include Eggs Benedict with Creole Hollandaise and cinnamon-drenched French Toast. After 11:00 a.m., the cafe offers a pasta special, fish special, lunch special, and daily special, as well as three soups du jour. There are no less than (and usually more than) 23 types of salad available on a daily basis. Augment this with an assortment of toothsome, made-from-scratch pastries and desserts, to be consumed with imported espresso, and you have yourself a European form of Nirvana unique to Alabama. If that makes sense...

At V. Richards, it does. The staff are consistently gracious and complaisant. Seating may be found indoors or outdoors. Outside, there are patios filled with the soothing sound of the fountain overlaid with soft jazz. Red awnings provide shade for the stone tables where wine tastings are held on Friday evenings. The chefs are creative and add personal touches to ingenious recipes. Ingredients are clearly fresh and often organic.

Today, I opted for the fish special: seared diver scallops, rapini, jumbo asparagus, and roasted potatoes. The tender rapini and asparagus were flavorful and robust. The red potatoes savoured of garlic and red pepper. But the scallops. I believe people close their eyes in ecstasy when they taste something especially delicious, because they want no outside stimuli to distract from the experience. The seared scallops had a seaside sweetness all their own, with the merest suggestion of lemon. They were poetry. My eyes closed.

In addition to being helpful, the staff are knowledgeable about the dishes created at the cafe and the items sold in the market. Almost any employee can pair a cheese with a complimentary wine and will even offer to chill the bottle prior to purchase. The butcher will proffer only the best cuts of meat, and the seafood is often sashimi quality. Much of the produce sold is local, and most dairy items are organic. It was raining as I left, but the woman at the checkout made sure I had a golfer's umbrella to shelter the path to my car. Now that's TLC.

4.5 Kudzu

DePalma's Italian Cafe

Tuscaloosa, AL
$8-$19 Entrees

On the day on which my husband and I found out we were pregnant, we celebrated our bundle of joy-to-be by going to DePalma's (this was before the morning sickness set in and I couldn't even eat Saltines). Located in an old-fashioned building in downtown Tuscaloosa, DePalma's has a charming interior characterized by high ceilings and walls the color of warm, comforting Campbell's tomato soup. Wine bottles line the wall behind the booths and an antique pharmacy sign is displayed over the bar. The eye is drawn to advertisements for old films. The air is cool and refreshing, thanks to the ceiling fans rotating high above. A small oil lamp on each table adds a romantic touch.

DePalma's is usually packed and bustling at lunch but more relaxed at supper. Be sure to come when you can stay for about an hour and a half. The service is not slow, but it is important to take the time to savor a drink, an antipasto, an insalata, an entree, a dessert, and a cappuccino ... at least! After all, when in Rome ...

DePalma's tends to use fresh produce, herbs, and cheeses in their recipes. If you are a bold eater and wish to sample a variety of savories, order the antipasto platter: artichoke hearts, parmesan, proscuitto, zucchini, olives, red onions, and fresh mozzarella. The mixed greens and tomato salad may sound simplistic; but add their creamy gorgonzola dressing (featuring fresh black pepper), and it becomes simply irresistible.

In addition to their developed menu, DePalma's offers creative daily specials, which always include a unique lasagna recipe. I ordered my usual, the pine nut encrusted salmon. (Doesn't that phrase just give you a little thrill? Like the phrase "rosemary cream sauce." Ooooo!) The salmon was cooked perfectly, flaky, yet not dry in the least. Topped with capers and melted mascarpone cheese, it was enticing.

DePalma's pizzas are quite popular. Although they take extra time to bake, it may be worth it to have fresh, hand-tossed dough. They offer the typical pizza with marinara sauce, as well as white pizza (olive oil, fresh garlic, cream, and parmesan), such as the Milano, which also features sun-dried tomatoes, portabella mushrooms, roasted red onions, fresh sage, and pancetta (an Italian bacon).

If you like dessert, try DePalma's white chocolate bread pudding. It is crispy and gooey and warm and creamy and decadent all at the same time. However, I wish they would leave off the superfluous chocolate and strawberry sauce, drizzling only the white chocolate sauce. Cappuccino, the foam topped with a pinch of cinnamon, is served in a proper cappuccino cup with a dainty demitasse spoon. The Southern belle in me approved.

DePalma's has a quite respectable list of Italian and Californian wines. They also serve a nectarous bellini (which means "pretty" in Italian), made with pureed white peaches and prosecco.

With so many delicacies to try, an atmosphere in which to linger, and an attentive waitstaff, DePalma's is the dell'ape ginocchia ... the bee's knees!

4 Kudzu

GW's Family Restaurant and Steak House

Hueytown, AL
$8-$15 Entrees

In the heart of Hueytown, AL is a small community. This community is not based on politics, religion, or income bracket. It is centered on the good, country cooking to be found at GW's Family Restaurant and Steakhouse. GW's is a meat and three by day but transforms into a steak and karaoke extravaganza by night. No matter what time you arrive, you will be warmly welcomed by a hospitable waitress and perhaps the owner himself. The decor is as country as the cooking. An artificial Christmas tree stays up year round. A largemouth bass peers down at the diners from his place of honor. A homey quilt adorns the wall. I saw this as an auspicious sign of the comfort food to come.

At age 17, my husband was once pulled over for going 34 in a 30 in Decatur, AL. The officer said, "Where are you going in such a hurry, son?" My husband said, "My 101-year-old great-grandmother is cooking Sunday lunch, and if I'm late, she'll kill me!" The officer scoffed, disbelievingly, and wrote out the ticket. The thing is, my husband was telling the truth (although he was not murdered that day). Mrs. Annie Rochelle cooked a massive, weekly Sunday lunch with love until the year she passed at 101. I did not meet her myself, but I imagine her cooking was much like that found at GW's.

Each day, the owner and staff (and any early customers who would like to join in) hold hands and say grace before the first plate of the day is served. A large, open Bible rests on a side table. The eyeglasses placed upon it signify that this Bible is actually read, unlike the dusty tomes found in many homes. For lunch, try the fried chicken, delicious dressing, and Italian flat beans. Their fluffy cornbread is literally the best I have ever had (sorry, Mom). However, GW's is BYOB (Bring Your Own Butter); they only serve bottled margarine. Now, I have this thing for instant mashed potatoes. The only bright spot in the harrowing experience of recovering from wisdom teeth extraction was the mass quantities of instant mashed potatoes I was allowed to consume. GW's serves instant mashed potatoes (collective gasp). But I'm not going to be the one to knock off a kudzu for it. Top off your feast with their cherry cream cheese pie ... Y'all. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven.

If you want a quiet dinner, go on Monday or Tuesday. If you want live entertainment (or, like me, you have a burning desire to sing "Sweet Child O' Mine"), go on Friday (Gospel Karaoke Night) or Saturday (Rock Karaoke Night). The steak is okay. The salad is okay. The oregano ranch dressing, however, is addictive. I took some home with me and wailed the next day upon discovering I'd left it in my purse, unrefrigerated.

No matter what their excellent qualities, no matter what their shortcomings, a diner at this restaurant will quickly realize that each customer, no matter who, is welcomed and served with love. Each customer will also leave as full as a tick. And that's something to be proud of.

3 Kudzu

Urban Standard

Birmingham, AL

$6-$9 Entrees

Located in the recently gentrified 2nd Avenue North area of downtown Birmingham is a trendy confection of a restaurant. Urban Standard is more than a restaurant, however. The vintage art, lamps, furniture, and maps this cafe sells make the atmosphere captivating. Cleverly restructured antique, household items line the original, interior brick walls. These walls rise to meet a high ceiling, lending each conversation a pleasant echo.

The routine is informal. Order with the taciturn waiter at the counter, and have a seat. Your meal will be brought to you in a timely manner. The Grilled Chicken Panino (when I read the rare, but correct singular spelling of this word, I heard a faint Hallelujah chorus) features Tanglewood Farms (read: all natural) chicken breast, smoked bacon, caramelized onion, and goat cheese. It comes with balsamic jam, which tastes of grape and vinegar, two flavors I would not have thought would compliment each other so well. The panino was grilled and crispy and creamy in the middle. Yum. It came with a side of marinated broccoli, which was sweet and slightly steamed.

I also had the Roasted Fennel Salad. I love to try new things, but somehow, had escaped the distinctive ingredient of fennel throughout my life. I decided to taste it. It was, as advertised, roasted, with the internal consistency of baked eggplant, the external appearance of artichoke hearts, and a black licorice aftertaste. I thought, "I don't like it. Wait, yes I do. Wait, no I don't." But I couldn't stop eating it, as it instilled a sort of fascination. The rest of the salad was decidedly delicious, with mixed greens, pine nuts, and goat cheese (can you tell I like goat cheese?). It was served with honey lemon vinaigrette, complete with a Dijon piquancy.

Dessert consisted of a lovely latte with an average scone. However, the lemon creme fraiche elevated the humble cinnamon scone to new heights of gastronomical ecstasy. I was ever so pleased with it. I was ever so pleased with the final price tag, too.

4 Kudzu

Jerusalem Cafe

Mobile, AL
$11-$15 Entrees

Every once in a while, I stumble upon a gem of a restaurant in an unprepossessing location with an uninspiring exterior. This restaurant may not have a platinum setting, but it is a VVSI diamond in the rough.

Jerusalem Cafe is located on Airport Boulevard in a humble strip mall, surrounded by (shudder) garish chain restaurants. However, the interior atmosphere is elegant and serene with Middle Eastern tapestries, comfortable seating, and white tablecloths. The service is as flawlessly polished as the presentation.

My friend, Wendi, and I took our repast at Jerusalem Cafe on a weekday. We split the Jerusalem Dinner Feast, which is certainly enough for two, and offers a sampling of mezzah and entrees, as well as dessert. We each started with a house salad, which featured a refreshing, enticing dressing redolent of citrus, white vinegar, and white pepper. Wendi and I each ordered a bottle to take home.

The hummus was delightfully heavy on the tahini and lemon. The baba ganouj was creamy and mild. Tender and with a gentle flavor, the stuffed grape leaves did not taste too pickled like so many tend to do. The felafel was spicy, but not overly so. Wendi aptly described its flavor as "earthy." (She is a true poet and should be a food critic, too!)

I will now make a brave statement: The tabouli was even better than my father-in-law's. There, I've said it. Perfectly measured parts of tomatoes and cucumbers, with a hint of lemon juice to cut the pungency of the fresh parsley. (I hope my in-laws do not disown me, but I must maintain my journalistic integrity.)

The beef tenderloin kabobs just melted in our mouths and were complimented by a subdued yogurt sauce. The squash, grilled with olive oil, was tender, yet crisp. The ambrosial baklava was hot and buttery with a balmy aroma ... perhaps of rosewater?

After this exquisite experience, Wendi and I were completely tamed. We langourously lingered over coffee, never once feeling rushed by our lovely waiter. I may have to relocate to Mobile, just so I can eat at Jerusalem Cafe twice a day for the rest of my life.

5 Kudzu