DePalma's Italian Cafe

Tuscaloosa, AL
$8-$19 Entrees

On the day on which my husband and I found out we were pregnant, we celebrated our bundle of joy-to-be by going to DePalma's (this was before the morning sickness set in and I couldn't even eat Saltines). Located in an old-fashioned building in downtown Tuscaloosa, DePalma's has a charming interior characterized by high ceilings and walls the color of warm, comforting Campbell's tomato soup. Wine bottles line the wall behind the booths and an antique pharmacy sign is displayed over the bar. The eye is drawn to advertisements for old films. The air is cool and refreshing, thanks to the ceiling fans rotating high above. A small oil lamp on each table adds a romantic touch.

DePalma's is usually packed and bustling at lunch but more relaxed at supper. Be sure to come when you can stay for about an hour and a half. The service is not slow, but it is important to take the time to savor a drink, an antipasto, an insalata, an entree, a dessert, and a cappuccino ... at least! After all, when in Rome ...

DePalma's tends to use fresh produce, herbs, and cheeses in their recipes. If you are a bold eater and wish to sample a variety of savories, order the antipasto platter: artichoke hearts, parmesan, proscuitto, zucchini, olives, red onions, and fresh mozzarella. The mixed greens and tomato salad may sound simplistic; but add their creamy gorgonzola dressing (featuring fresh black pepper), and it becomes simply irresistible.

In addition to their developed menu, DePalma's offers creative daily specials, which always include a unique lasagna recipe. I ordered my usual, the pine nut encrusted salmon. (Doesn't that phrase just give you a little thrill? Like the phrase "rosemary cream sauce." Ooooo!) The salmon was cooked perfectly, flaky, yet not dry in the least. Topped with capers and melted mascarpone cheese, it was enticing.

DePalma's pizzas are quite popular. Although they take extra time to bake, it may be worth it to have fresh, hand-tossed dough. They offer the typical pizza with marinara sauce, as well as white pizza (olive oil, fresh garlic, cream, and parmesan), such as the Milano, which also features sun-dried tomatoes, portabella mushrooms, roasted red onions, fresh sage, and pancetta (an Italian bacon).

If you like dessert, try DePalma's white chocolate bread pudding. It is crispy and gooey and warm and creamy and decadent all at the same time. However, I wish they would leave off the superfluous chocolate and strawberry sauce, drizzling only the white chocolate sauce. Cappuccino, the foam topped with a pinch of cinnamon, is served in a proper cappuccino cup with a dainty demitasse spoon. The Southern belle in me approved.

DePalma's has a quite respectable list of Italian and Californian wines. They also serve a nectarous bellini (which means "pretty" in Italian), made with pureed white peaches and prosecco.

With so many delicacies to try, an atmosphere in which to linger, and an attentive waitstaff, DePalma's is the dell'ape ginocchia ... the bee's knees!

4 Kudzu

GW's Family Restaurant and Steak House

Hueytown, AL
$8-$15 Entrees

In the heart of Hueytown, AL is a small community. This community is not based on politics, religion, or income bracket. It is centered on the good, country cooking to be found at GW's Family Restaurant and Steakhouse. GW's is a meat and three by day but transforms into a steak and karaoke extravaganza by night. No matter what time you arrive, you will be warmly welcomed by a hospitable waitress and perhaps the owner himself. The decor is as country as the cooking. An artificial Christmas tree stays up year round. A largemouth bass peers down at the diners from his place of honor. A homey quilt adorns the wall. I saw this as an auspicious sign of the comfort food to come.

At age 17, my husband was once pulled over for going 34 in a 30 in Decatur, AL. The officer said, "Where are you going in such a hurry, son?" My husband said, "My 101-year-old great-grandmother is cooking Sunday lunch, and if I'm late, she'll kill me!" The officer scoffed, disbelievingly, and wrote out the ticket. The thing is, my husband was telling the truth (although he was not murdered that day). Mrs. Annie Rochelle cooked a massive, weekly Sunday lunch with love until the year she passed at 101. I did not meet her myself, but I imagine her cooking was much like that found at GW's.

Each day, the owner and staff (and any early customers who would like to join in) hold hands and say grace before the first plate of the day is served. A large, open Bible rests on a side table. The eyeglasses placed upon it signify that this Bible is actually read, unlike the dusty tomes found in many homes. For lunch, try the fried chicken, delicious dressing, and Italian flat beans. Their fluffy cornbread is literally the best I have ever had (sorry, Mom). However, GW's is BYOB (Bring Your Own Butter); they only serve bottled margarine. Now, I have this thing for instant mashed potatoes. The only bright spot in the harrowing experience of recovering from wisdom teeth extraction was the mass quantities of instant mashed potatoes I was allowed to consume. GW's serves instant mashed potatoes (collective gasp). But I'm not going to be the one to knock off a kudzu for it. Top off your feast with their cherry cream cheese pie ... Y'all. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven.

If you want a quiet dinner, go on Monday or Tuesday. If you want live entertainment (or, like me, you have a burning desire to sing "Sweet Child O' Mine"), go on Friday (Gospel Karaoke Night) or Saturday (Rock Karaoke Night). The steak is okay. The salad is okay. The oregano ranch dressing, however, is addictive. I took some home with me and wailed the next day upon discovering I'd left it in my purse, unrefrigerated.

No matter what their excellent qualities, no matter what their shortcomings, a diner at this restaurant will quickly realize that each customer, no matter who, is welcomed and served with love. Each customer will also leave as full as a tick. And that's something to be proud of.

3 Kudzu

Urban Standard

Birmingham, AL

$6-$9 Entrees

Located in the recently gentrified 2nd Avenue North area of downtown Birmingham is a trendy confection of a restaurant. Urban Standard is more than a restaurant, however. The vintage art, lamps, furniture, and maps this cafe sells make the atmosphere captivating. Cleverly restructured antique, household items line the original, interior brick walls. These walls rise to meet a high ceiling, lending each conversation a pleasant echo.

The routine is informal. Order with the taciturn waiter at the counter, and have a seat. Your meal will be brought to you in a timely manner. The Grilled Chicken Panino (when I read the rare, but correct singular spelling of this word, I heard a faint Hallelujah chorus) features Tanglewood Farms (read: all natural) chicken breast, smoked bacon, caramelized onion, and goat cheese. It comes with balsamic jam, which tastes of grape and vinegar, two flavors I would not have thought would compliment each other so well. The panino was grilled and crispy and creamy in the middle. Yum. It came with a side of marinated broccoli, which was sweet and slightly steamed.

I also had the Roasted Fennel Salad. I love to try new things, but somehow, had escaped the distinctive ingredient of fennel throughout my life. I decided to taste it. It was, as advertised, roasted, with the internal consistency of baked eggplant, the external appearance of artichoke hearts, and a black licorice aftertaste. I thought, "I don't like it. Wait, yes I do. Wait, no I don't." But I couldn't stop eating it, as it instilled a sort of fascination. The rest of the salad was decidedly delicious, with mixed greens, pine nuts, and goat cheese (can you tell I like goat cheese?). It was served with honey lemon vinaigrette, complete with a Dijon piquancy.

Dessert consisted of a lovely latte with an average scone. However, the lemon creme fraiche elevated the humble cinnamon scone to new heights of gastronomical ecstasy. I was ever so pleased with it. I was ever so pleased with the final price tag, too.

4 Kudzu

Jerusalem Cafe

Mobile, AL
$11-$15 Entrees

Every once in a while, I stumble upon a gem of a restaurant in an unprepossessing location with an uninspiring exterior. This restaurant may not have a platinum setting, but it is a VVSI diamond in the rough.

Jerusalem Cafe is located on Airport Boulevard in a humble strip mall, surrounded by (shudder) garish chain restaurants. However, the interior atmosphere is elegant and serene with Middle Eastern tapestries, comfortable seating, and white tablecloths. The service is as flawlessly polished as the presentation.

My friend, Wendi, and I took our repast at Jerusalem Cafe on a weekday. We split the Jerusalem Dinner Feast, which is certainly enough for two, and offers a sampling of mezzah and entrees, as well as dessert. We each started with a house salad, which featured a refreshing, enticing dressing redolent of citrus, white vinegar, and white pepper. Wendi and I each ordered a bottle to take home.

The hummus was delightfully heavy on the tahini and lemon. The baba ganouj was creamy and mild. Tender and with a gentle flavor, the stuffed grape leaves did not taste too pickled like so many tend to do. The felafel was spicy, but not overly so. Wendi aptly described its flavor as "earthy." (She is a true poet and should be a food critic, too!)

I will now make a brave statement: The tabouli was even better than my father-in-law's. There, I've said it. Perfectly measured parts of tomatoes and cucumbers, with a hint of lemon juice to cut the pungency of the fresh parsley. (I hope my in-laws do not disown me, but I must maintain my journalistic integrity.)

The beef tenderloin kabobs just melted in our mouths and were complimented by a subdued yogurt sauce. The squash, grilled with olive oil, was tender, yet crisp. The ambrosial baklava was hot and buttery with a balmy aroma ... perhaps of rosewater?

After this exquisite experience, Wendi and I were completely tamed. We langourously lingered over coffee, never once feeling rushed by our lovely waiter. I may have to relocate to Mobile, just so I can eat at Jerusalem Cafe twice a day for the rest of my life.

5 Kudzu

DiGiorgio's Out Takes Restaurant

Homewood, AL
$5-$8 Entrees

Most women love to order salads. If it's called a salad, it must be healthy, right? (We rationalize the mayonnaise in the chicken salad, the blue cheese on the Cobb, the oil in the dressing.) However, most salads are healthy. This holds true at Out Takes. This is the perfect restaurant for a lunch with the girls. (Ladies, don't try to take your husbands to this restaurant. This restaurant serves chick food only.)

Out Takes has a simple, comfortable interior. Accessed by a flight of stairs, it is not for the handi-capable. The decor on the walls is attractive, albeit unoriginal: photos of Monroe, Dean, and Hepburn (Audrey, that is). The staff are personable and accommodating, and service is fast. Order and pay at the counter; then, have a seat.

The Salad Assortment is a popular selection for those who enjoy variety. First, choose from the chicken and tuna salads. I recommend the Swiss-Almond Chicken, a rich puree of Swiss cheese, crushed, slivered almonds, and rosemary. Next, choose two of the Specialty Salads. The Potato Vinaigrette is made with red potatoes and Dijon. Many would enjoy the taste of the mustard, which is quite strong. The Pasta Pesto is yummy with chunks of provolone cheese, as well as fresh tomato and dried basil. (I do believe it would be even better, however, if the basil were fresh.) Their sweet tea is acceptable.

Out Takes offers a wide variety of deli sandwiches, as well as wraps and soups. But a meal is not complete without dessert (at least not in my world), and the menu includes a variety of cookies, brownies, and cheesecakes. I was very impressed by their shortbread cookies which were sweet and salty and crumbly all at the same time. I called it "My Little Biscuit" and wished for hot tea with milk and sugar to go with it. Hmmm ... I really need to go back there, if only for another shortbread cookie ...

2.5 Kudzu

Keifer's

Jackson, MS

$6-$9 Entrees

Ah, Keifer's! How I have craved thee since I moved away from Jackson! While a student at Millsaps College (go Major's!), I ate at Keifer's on a weekly basis. (This was back when I was a serious lap swimmer and could regularly burn off the ridiculous number of calories I was consuming.) I still get a hankering for their feta sauce, especially when under stress, or while relaxing on the couch, or ... okay, it's all the time. There needs to be a Fetaholics Anonymous.

Basically, Keifer's is an American restaurant. Their menu says "Keifer's, Est. 1980, A Taste of the Mediterranean." This is accurate. You will get a taste of the Mediterranean, including but not limited to: lamb, tzatziki sauce, feta, chickpeas, cracked wheat, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, stuffed grape leaves, pita bread, and baklava. You may also get a taste of honey mustard, hamburger, ham and cheese, smoked turkey, smoked bacon, tuna salad, and potato, to name a few of their other ingredients. This melting pot could best be described as "exciting Mediterranean male seeks a forgiving Southern female."

At any rate, last week while visiting Jackson, I relapsed. My coping skills all failed, and I'll have to surrender my chips. After parking my car in the familiarly crowded parking lot, I entered the equally crowded and bustling restaurant with welcoming, outdoor side decks. (I've always liked the white lights they string along the ceilings outside.) My way to my table was fraught with perils, including speed walking waiters carrying pitchers of beer, plates of gyros, and cottage fried potatoes. Seriously, if you want to avoid a nasty collision, be careful while walking through this restaurant! I sat down and looked around at the many open rooms forming the interior of the building, each lined with Mediterraneanesque curio. Keifer's is fun, casual, and very popular. However, I have often observed that the restaurant would benefit from a) a thorough cleaning, b) a larger parking lot, c) a larger building, and d) reevaluation of the flow of foot traffic. It is also e) virtually inaccessible to the handicapped. I prayed for the serenity to accept the things I cannot change.

Keifer's service is always rushed. Your waiter is rushed, the busboys are rushed, and the cooks are rushed. The upside: service is fast. The menu is the same for lunch and dinner. The restaurant tends to have regulars, and if you go there enough, you will identify your usual. I myself have three usuals (see the subtitle to this blog): The Pita Mozz, the Cucumber, and the Chicken Gyro. The Pita Mozz is fresh pita bread topped with mozzarella cheese, grilled, and served with my DOC, feta sauce. Sometimes, after my Pita Mozz slices are gone, I just sit there and eat the feta sauce with a spoon. But I digress.

The Cucumber consists of marinated, sliced cucumbers with white onion served with ... you guess it ... feta sauce. The cucumbers have a sweet bite, which is complimented by the garlicky feta sauce. The Chicken Gyro contains spiced chicken roasted on the rotisserie (specifically, the spit commonly used for lamb at Greek restaurants) and then shaved off into thin slices. It usually is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and honey mustard. However, I recommend that one holds the honey mustard and substitutes ... feta sauce. Just for today.

No matter what you order, the price will be right. The college crowd is evidence one can eat here on a budget. As I paid the check, I sighed, knowing I'd have to drive back to Birmingham and get back on the wagon. Until next time ...

3 Kudzu

Shapley's

Jackson, MS
$28-$50 Entrees

The first time I dined at Shapleys, I was 17 years old. A poor college student, I was taken there on a second date. Upon arriving, I was stunned to find that we were meeting his parents. On the second date. I spent the meal listening to his mother as she regaled me with an itemized list of what "Dear William" was looking for in a wife. I didn't eat much.

This week, I figured that the only way an experience at Shapley's could go would be up. The only problem: I was coming in from out of town and didn't have a babysitter. My baby, being the experienced diner she is, is almost always quiet at restaurants. I decided to take a chance. I could always take it to go if I had to. I arrived at the brick restaurant with oil lamps lining the exterior. I started to wonder whether Shapley's was out of my price range. Reminding myself that class is what you do when no one is looking, I looked around, and seeing no one, walked in. With a stroller.

The host graciously led the both of us to one of Shapley's elegant little alcoves. Although a bit put off by the formality and air of exclusivity, I liked the privacy. So did Baby Claire. Shapley's atmosphere is luxurious with candle light and damask tablecloths. However, the light is so dim that, like the lettuces in Mr. MacGregor's garden, the environment has a soporific effect. Although the men wear button-downs, surprisingly, coats are not required.

Shapley's is renowned for their incomparable wine list. Actually, it is more like a wine phone book. There are 46 pages of wines by the bottle. The 47th page is wine by the glass. I quickly turned to the 47th page. Any initial apprehensions I may have had about the prices were quickly drowned in a glass of Louis Gundrum Reisling. It was crisp and refreshing ... so good, in fact, that I ordered a second. My financial inhibitions slipped another notch.

Perusing the menu, I noted that everything is a la carte. I was also a bit astonished to see that Shapley's lists their prices on their menu ... a bit inconsistent with their overall image. I tried Shapley's famous bread, which was fresh with a crusty exterior and a soft, light interior. Of course, I slathered it with the whipped honey butter. Next, a garden salad consisting of mixed field greens and truly excellent blue cheese dressing. Somewhere in between this course and the next, I noticed that the waiter had failed to breathe a word about the specials. I listened with some jealousy as the waiter next door told his diners about oyster something or other. I thought vindictively "They might have just sacrificed a kudzu!"

Now, I have this thing. When it says au gratin, I have to order it. This time, it was the delicious creamed spinach au gratin paired with the cream and chive scalloped potatoes. Unfortunately, the latter were very bland. (I make a Martha Stewart recipe that is much better.) The side orders being quite large, and my baby not exactly pulling her weight, I requested that the rest be boxed up. The two came back to the table in one small box. I couldn't believe my eyes. The potatoes had been placed in a dessert box with the spinach on top! Needless to say, I sent it back, and they corrected the error.

I once heard a person complain that Ruth's Chris allegedly pours butter over their steaks to make them taste better. I thought, "and this is a bad thing?" Shapley's 8 oz. filet was delectable, if overpriced. As tender as the stick of butter they poured over it, it was nice and thick and perfectly medium rare.

In order to help absorb the effects of a touch too much Reisling, I ordered dessert. This is when Baby Claire strapped on the feedbag. In order to keep her quiet, I succumbed to her demands and plied her with vast quantities of bread pudding, hoping the alcohol content in the frangelico and amaretto sauce had been effectively burned off in the sauce pan. Personally, I think the sauce was disappointing, but the bread pudding was satisfying.

Baby Claire and I were becoming so drowsy in the Stygian darkness that I requested the check. Although this was forthcoming, the waiter then left and did not pick it back up for at least 20 minutes. Finally, he decided that the establishment would benefit from my payment, after all. I left the restaurant, my eyes adjusting to the comparatively bright night sky. A nonsmoker, I wanted a postprandial cigarette. I settled for postprandial narcolepsy.

3.5 kudzu