Jim Davenport's Pizza Palace

Mountain Brook, AL
$9-$15 Entrees

A Southerner by birth, Jim Davenport spent twelve years as a star third-baseman for the San Francisco Giants. He still works in the Giants' front office at the age of 78! Perhaps more important than his accomplishments on the field, Jim is best known for his loyalty to the Giants and to his friends.

One of those friends, an Alabamian named Rex Hollis, befriended Davenport in California. In 1964, Hollis returned to Alabama to open Jim Davenport’s Pizza Palace … with the permission of Mr. Davenport, who hoped his name recognition would boost Mr. Hollis’s pizza sales.

It worked. Davenport's has now been open for 47 years.

This busy, thriving eatery in the heart (and hearts) of Mountain Brook Village enjoys tremendous customer loyalty and a casual atmosphere. Regulars relish the simplicity of this traditional pizza joint, where the menus are printed on pizza peels, the large, wooden, tray-like spatulas the chefs use to lift pizzas in and out of the stainless steel ovens, the warmth captured by transparent partitions. Davenport’s remains a cool refuge from summer’s inferno.

The dark green walls sports not only a pale mural of Venice, but also memorabilia collected over the decades, from a framed Giants’ jersey to antique magazine covers of Ginger Rogers and Ronald Reagan. The collectibles are viewed by the dim light of the small, red oil lamps resting on the red and white tablecloths on each table. Although Davenport’s always has a steady stream of customers, it never feels crowded, and the service is fast. If you have the time, try to beat the high score on one of the eight vintage video games lining the wall, including, of course, Mrs. Pacman.

Realistically, a pizza joint that’s lasted for 47 years has to have good pizza – and Davenport’s does not disappoint. The simple menu offers traditional toppings on pizzas available in small (9”), medium (12”) and large (15”) sizes. No exotic ingredients here and no surprises. This pizza is not a flashy, new acquaintance, but an old, tried-and true friend.

Customers can choose between the Meat Lover’s Special with pepperoni, ham and sausage; the Rex Special with sausage, onions and green peppers; the Jim Special with beef, pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, onions and green peppers; and the Veggie Special with mushrooms, onions and green peppers. Some may choose to get creative with the Build Your Own option, selecting any of the above ingredients, as well as extra cheese, bacon, black olives, green olives, jalapenos, pineapple, banana peppers, Roma tomatoes and anchovies.

No matter which toppings you choose, you will receive a hot pizza with a thin, crunchy crust and a generous amount of chewy, mozzarella cheese. You’ll enjoy salad and drinks with your pizzas. The house garden salad includes tomatoes, pepperoncini peppers, black olives, bacon and croutons. Draft beer and wine are both available.

All in all, Davenport’s certainly has a peel. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist!) The secret to Davenport’s longevity is the same simple, traditional enjoyment one might feel when watching a baseball game. Have one meal there, and you’ll understand the anonymous quote found on a sign by the front entrance: “I’ve spent most of my money on beer and pizza. The rest I’ve just wasted.”

3.5 Kudzu

The Fish Market

Hoover, AL

$8-$13 Lunch Entrees

$11-$15 Dinner Entrees

The interior of The Fish Market in Hoover is a gumbo of wooden birdcages, fake houseplants, wall-mounted swordfish, and paintings of wildly differing styles. This salmagundi’s parent restaurant is the original, downtown location, purchased in 1982 by George Sarris, who emigrated from Greece in 1969. The Fish Market specializes in serving the freshest, most reasonably priced seafood in Birmingham … with a Greek twist.

The Fish Market has an entirely casual, family atmosphere with a large, open floor plan. However, the lack of a clear seating system can disorient customers. Signs posted to designate “full service” sections only add to the confusion. I found myself asking, “Full service? As opposed to what? Am I at a ’50’s gas station?” Seeing we were lost, a waitress seated my mother and me at a table with a gaudy, yet practical plastic tablecloth. It took my mother, who lives in Illinois where she can’t find such seafood, a full 20 minutes, as well as two excellent martinis from the full bar, to finally decide to order nearly everything on the extensive menu.

Hemingway wrote about his stay in 1920’s Paris in A Moveable Feast (1964): "As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea … and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell …, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.” Our oysters on the half shell made us equally happy. Like a bottle of white wine, they were perfectly chilled. Like Lewis Carroll’s Walrus and Carpenter, we ate them, “every one”.

Contrary to its name, West Indies Salad was invented near Mobile in 1947 by Bill Bayley, a restaurateur. Tender lump crabmeat must be allowed to marinate for 12 hours in a mixture of apple cider vinegar and sweet white onion while being constantly chilled by extremely cold ice water. The Fish Market’s West Indies Salad was properly prepared and bitingly delicious.

The Krabby Cakes were incredibly crispy outside with a generous amount of lump crabmeat inside. They were accompanied by fresh dill dip, which was so good I requested extra. Of the three types of cole slaw offered, I opted for Greek. Upon tasting it, I realized I had been deprived of real cole slaw my entire life. With self-pitying ecstasy, I munched on the angel hair cabbage, generously salted and mixed with feta, Greek herbs, oil, and vinegar.

Extremely strong fighters able to swim 50 mph, swordfish are prized for their tasty meat. As swordfish are no longer endangered, I tasted my mother’s with no compunction. She declared it “outstanding”. We ate bite after bite of the perfectly cooked delicacy with its rich flavor brought out by a squeeze of fresh lemon. Some historians believe the word “hushpuppies” was coined by Southern cooks who would feed a fried cornmeal mixture to begging dogs during fish fries. Others think “hushpuppies” were fed to Confederate dogs by Union soldiers to quell their barks. Regardless, my mother and I ate every one of our golden balls of cornmeal.

For those of you who now think I only eat my mother’s food, you’re wrong. I also ate the butterflied shrimp, springy scallops, and delicately flaky snapper in my seafood platter. Other than the surprisingly bland fried oysters, everything was well-seasoned and crispy. The platter came with fantastic French fries, made in-house with the skins left on.

As I ushered my mother, by then insisting on being addressed as “Captain”, out the door, I reflected on how unusual it is to find seafood this good so far from the coast. Augmenting the experience was our friendly waitress and the fact the restaurant serves several kinds of homemade pie. I had eaten so heartily, my pie, a delectable coconut cream, had to depart in a to-go box.

4 Kudzu

Chez Lulu

English Village, Birmingham, AL

$8-$14 Entrees

Acclaimed in several national publications, Chez Lulu doesn’t need another food critic praising their cuisine or another customer recommending them to their friends. Well, Chez Lulu, I’m doing it anyway.

For those who missed French 101, Chez Lulu means: “an enclave of European scrumptiousness”. Carole Griffin, who started Continental Bakery, Chez Lulu’s next-door parent company, with encouragement and funding from her grandmother, introduced the concept … and croissants … to Birmingham 27 years ago. Chez Lulu began charming customers in 1995. For Ms. Griffin, it’s all about the bread. She says, “Chez Lulu was born of my desire to showcase the beautiful artisanal breads we were creating … and to share with Birmingham my own passion for the flavors and spirit of French café society.” Chez Lulu is actually a euphemism for a French bordello, one example of owner Carole Griffin’s insouciant, Monty Pythonesque sense of humor. Another is “Springalingadingdong”, the annual May festival sponsored by Continental Bakery, which includes hula-hoop and costume contests, a bread toss, parade, and reenactment of Marie Antoinette’s execution by guillotine.

The atmosphere is not for the claustrophobic, yet it has a certain je ne sais quoi. A gorgeous, cozy hodgepodge of saffron and multicolored lights, crowned with a ceiling in a ruby tincture, it resembles a complex coat of arms. One twists and turns around hand-made iron tables, crushed velvet pillows, paintings of European landscapes and swag lamps to arrive at the luxurious chaise lounge in the restroom, awarded Best Bathroom by Birmingham Weekly.

But don’t let the interior mosaic fool you. This authentic bistro has clearly defined priorities: remaining active Slow Food members, supporting local farmers who use time-honored growing methods, serving fresh, seasonal produce, creating European breads from scratch, employing traditional, stone hearth baking methods, and using only the finest natural ingredients. This restaurant attracts a cosmopolitan, sophisticated clientele, some of whom are canine. The latter are welcome to dine al fresco with their owners at comfortable tables under cooling red umbrellas. The wait staff is extremely knowledgeable about the cuisine and prepared to answer questions with aplomb.

The innovative menu is French with Spanish and Italian influences. Beautiful music is made with imported and local ingredients in Gallic recipes. Although many enjoy the kalamata olive tapenade, my favorite appetizer is the “Cheeze” Lulu, a platter of Brie, chevre, Gorgonzola and sliced fruit. On the day I dined, one soup du jour was a chilled gazpacho, difficult to find this side of the Atlantic. Chez Lulu is famous for their chicken salad, accented with French tarragon, finished with fresh-squeezed lemon and served on the artisanal bread of one’s choice.

Francophiles will love the tarte du jour, served in a homemade butter crust. My choices were zucchini and red bell pepper or southwestern corn; however, tarte recipes change seasonally. La Doba a la Nissarda (Daube Nicoise), a classic stew invented in Nice, is made with tender beef simmered in red wine with wild mushrooms and vegetables. In France, beef from bullfights was traditionally used; however, Chez Lulu uses only grass-fed, hormone-free beef. For dessert, don’t pass up the delicate pear-almond tarte glazed with apricot.

If you want a Sunday kind of love, go to brunch at Chez Lulu. French cherry preserves are married with Alabama goat cheese and blanketed in springy, golden crepes. For a savory crepe, try the ham with Mornay sauce. Want chi-chi with substance? Order the steel-cut oatmeal with banana brulee. A variety of creations from the bakery are available, including French brioche and custard buns, Belgian chocolate croissants and pain de campagne, a 4½-pound sourdough that takes 48 hours to prepare. Chez Lulu serves Continental Bakery’s private blend of coffee, as well as specialty nonalcoholic drinks. Alcoholic beverages are served after noon and include Chez Lulu’s mimosa and homemade Bloody Mary.

Chez Lulu opens for Sunday brunch and on Tuesdays through Sundays for lunch and dinner. In keeping with the whimsical sense of fun, periodical live entertainment is available, such as belly dancers, accordion players and Spanish guitarists. The word “standout” has two definitions: 1) something remarkably superior to others; and 2) someone conspicuous due to refusal to conform to the majority’s actions or opinions. Chez Lulu embodies them both.

5 Kudzu

The Pita Stop

Birmingham, AL (Cahaba Heights) $8-$12 Entrees The Pita Stop ... sounds like a small stand for take-out gyros. The name might lead first-time customers to greatly underestimate the experience they will receive, one of casual elegance and gastronomical excellence.

Many Birmingham natives know the original Pita Stop opened over 30 years ago in Southside. Recently, however, a second location opened in Cahaba Heights. Many second locations have inauspicious beginnings. Not so The Pita Stop. This Mediterranean restaurant, whose food hails more from the Middle East than from Greece, is perfection. Shining through cambered windows, sunlight falls on neutral walls and simple tables accented with stemmed beverage glasses. The ambiance is understated, from the wine racks at the front of the restaurant to the nicely tiled floor. The Pita Stop offers outdoor seating, where one can listen to the patio fountain, the home of several enchanting goldfish. The servers are as professional as they appear in their white buttondowns and black bow ties. Meals are served promptly, with attention to detail.

The menu is concise, yet varied, offering a full range of dishes from appetizers to specialty entrees and desserts. Although the prices seemed reasonable, little did I guess how reasonable, considering the high-quality, generous servings. The Pita Stop's website states, "Only the finest meats and freshest vegetables, which come fresh from the farmers' market, find their way into our kitchen." My dining companion noted the trouble taken to find red, tasty tomatoes simply to garnish our appetizer. Beef and rice, rolled into tangy grape leaves, was perfectly cooked in tomato sauce until the rice expanded, creating tension. This tension holds each roll together firmly, enabling it to be dipped in Greek yogurt. The presentation was lovely, the fresh tomatoes and cucumbers embellishing the circular pattern of the rolls.

Every selection reflects attention to quality and aesthetics. My entree was accompanied by the only properly prepared tabouli I've encountered at a restaurant. The fresh parsley and mint didn't overpower its texture; rather, they balanced the bulgur wheat and fresh, chopped tomato and cucumber. Mixed with olive oil, enlivened with lemon juice, touched with pepper and topped with red onion, radish, banana pepper, feta and a dainty kalamata olive ... the tabouli was consummately authentic.

My Lebanese father-in-law taught me to make kibbeh, meaning "ball" and pronounced "kibby". He stressed selecting a cut of beef of the highest quality (although lamb is sometimes used). The beef is ground and mixed with garlic, pine nuts, softened bulgur wheat and a touch of cinnamon, a spice underappreciated in this country. Kibbeh is usually baked; however, when made at home, it's sometimes eaten raw like steak tartare and dipped in melted butter. At The Pita Stop, kibbeh is delivered in the form of a four-inch-high wedge accompanied by Greek yogurt. It's served with soft pita to dip in smooth, creamy hommos, sprinkled with paprika. Cantaloupe, pineapple and orange slices colorfully adorned the entree.

Order the almond tiramisu for dessert, a moist, light amaretto cake layered with mascarpone and topped with sliced almonds. It was delightful and satisfying. (That's a restaurant critic's way of saying "It was so good, I would've eaten it out of the trash!") Try the rich, strong Turkish coffee, steaming in a winsome, glazed espresso cup.

The Pita Stop welcomes catering orders, serves alcoholic beverages and offers several off-menu items, including filet mignon, shrimp kabobs and their famous rack of lamb. If you want gorgeous food styling, high-quality ingredients, abundant portions, modest prices, tasteful atmosphere and excellent service, this is the place to stop.

5 Kudzu

The Silver Coin Indian Grill

Hoover, AL
$8-$14 Entrees
$8 Lunch Buffet

A beautifully painted statue of the Hindu god, Ganesha, "Remover of Obstacles", greets guests as they walk into The Silver Coin, a lovely Indian restaurant in Hoover. Ganesha’s elephant trunk and a beautiful hostess welcomed me to a place of fragrant spices, saffron walls, ethereal music and exotic cuisine. Romantic, sequined Indian fabric prints shimmered through Silver Coin’s elegant glass tabletops. The scent of incense relaxed me as I read their extensive menu, offering dishes representative of every region of India. A dizzying number of dishes met my eye. Luckily, it was lunchtime, and Silver Coin’s buffet, replete with several of the menu selections, provided me with a sampling of these ancient recipes.

The buffet featured naan, a white, pillowy bread in all its pleasingly chewy glory. At Silver Coin, naan can be ordered baked with garlic, cheese, rosemary, peppers, or cherries and nuts. Naan can also be stuffed with lamb, potatoes, onions or spinach.

A tandoor is a cylindrical clay oven, which bakes many Indian meat dishes on a charcoal or wood fire burning within the tandoor itself. Silver Coin’s tandoori chicken, colorful in its traditionally festive red, was redolent of the char-grilled flavor of a thousand summers. The chicken karahi was spicy, yet forgiving, and served with softened green peppers in a rich sauce as aromatic as sandalwood. Silver Coin’s meat curries and rice entrees may be ordered either with chicken, lamb, goat or seafood. Although many Indian entrees are hot and spicy, you can always cut this sizzle with a little raita, a cooling yogurt and mint dip.

Silver Coin’s vegetarian items are as satisfying as their meat dishes. The vegetable korma, a mix of fresh cauliflower, lima beans, carrots, green beans and zucchini stirred into a rich, buttery sauce, was best served over tender basmati rice, which was punctuated by cilantro and caraway seeds. The pakoras, fritters interwoven with fennel leaves, onion and spinach, were as crispy as tempura and just as satiating. Fresh green beans were cooked with black mustard seeds and golden lentils, creating a wholesome combination. Silver Coin’s chefs are nothing if not flexible; any dish can be made vegan upon request, not always an easy feat.

Silver Coin offers a number of traditional Indian desserts. My favorite is kheer, a creamy, chilled rice pudding made with sugar and cardamom, that most alluring of spices. Even the children’s menu is enticing, offering American selections, but also dosa, a sweet, crisp crepe in this case cooked in ghee (clarified butter), candied and served with vanilla ice cream. Adults and children alike will love the mango lassi, a vibrant, smoothie-like dessert made with rich yogurt, pureed mango and heavy cream.

With gracious service, reasonable prices, no less than 38 cocktails and both imported and domestic beers on the menu, The Silver Coin is just as tempting in the evening as at lunchtime. It is no coincidence a statue of Ganesha, the god of success, graces the entrance to this gem of a restaurant.

4.5 Kudzu

Green Valley Drugs

Hoover, AL
$4-$6 Entrees

You don't need a prescription to go to Green Valley Drugs, but a treat there might be just the cure you need! In this charming pharmacy and gift shop dwells an all-American, old-fashioned, honest-to-goodness soda fountain complete with a friendly, hard-working staff with a talent for remembering their customers by name. Choose between a chair at a table or a round vinyl stool at the counter and listen to the roar of the retro milkshake blender while you try not to order everything on the menu.

Green Valley serves up some of the best cheeseburgers in town. Any nostalgia you may feel for the quality of restaurants past will be more than satisfied by the warm fuzzies you will experience with your first bite. These burgers are not the previously frozen, dry patties found at most restaurants today. These babies are made from fresh beef delivered to Green Valley each morning. After coming off the well-ventilated grill, they are tender, juicy and complemented by fresh lettuce, tomato, onion, thinly-sliced pickles, real mayonnaise, ketchup and a toasted bun. Paradise, anyone?

Green Valley also makes expertly crafted sandwiches, including a mean BLT. Served on white or wheat, the savory bacon, crisp lettuce and juicy tomato combine to form one of America's most oft-craved sandwiches. While Green Valley's tuna salad is a bit heavy on the pickle relish, their pimiento cheese won't disappoint. For those with large appetites, most sandwiches are available in club or double-decker size. All sandwiches should be accompanied by Green Valley's golden crinkle-cut fries, which are crispy on the outside, tender on the inside and served hot.

Certain things are worth dying for: God, country and a chocolate malt from Green Valley's soda fountain. This thick, creamy shake is punctuated by sugary lumps of malt like stars in a chocolaty night sky. You won't be able to stop drinking it. Although you can get it to-go, it will taste even better if served from a dented, stainless milkshake cup. No soft-serve at this soda fountain, either. Green Valley uses only real Mayfield ice cream in each sundae and banana split. The same genuine ingredients can be found in every selection. Even the lemonade is made with real lemons. For a bona fide breakfast, complete with eggs, grits, sausage and pancakes, come before 10:30 a.m. each weekday.

With prompt service and prices less than what a gallon of gas will cost by summer, it is no wonder that Green Valley Drugs soda fountain and pharmacy has been successful since December of 1961, when it first opened under the ownership of Mr. Joe Box. Now running for 50 years this December, it is Hoover's oldest business. To experience a bygone era when a date meant a couple simply sharing a Coca-Cola, bring your sweetheart and visit Green Valley Drugs. They might even give you two straws for your milkshake!

4 Kudzu

Taste of Thailand

Hoover, AL
$10-$16 Entrees

What would we do without fast food? Most of us would not forgo the convenience of drive-thrus and to-go menus. Sushi is arguably the first type of fast food ever invented. First created in Southeast Asia, then taken to the level of an art form by the Japanese, sushi is one of the most beautifully presented, healthy and delicious dishes one can order. Many Americans are afraid to try it. That's all right. More for me!

Start with nori, a dried, pressed sheet of seaweed with an addictive, slightly chewy texture. Spread a layer of delicately vinegared rice over the nori. Add sashimi-quality raw fish or, if you prefer, cooked fish. Other ingredients, such as strips of fresh avocado, cucumber, or thinly sliced carrot, may also be added. The combination is snugly rolled into a cylinder and firmly pressed with a bamboo mold. The cylinder is then sliced into yummy bite-sized jewels and occasionally topped with a sweet kabayaki sauce or a spicy wasabi-based sauce. Often, the cylinder is layered with rice and sesame seeds prior to slicing and garnished with ginger and wasabi. Sushi is traditionally dipped in soy sauce and eaten by hand.

The Japanese believe five different tastes exist. Sushi falls into the category of umami, which means "savoriness" or "deliciousness". I wholeheartedly agree. The combination of exotic flavors becomes more than the sum of its parts, causing the diner to enter a state of transcendent bliss and, thereafter, to wake frequently at 2:00 a.m. with inexorable sushi cravings.

Enter Taste of Thailand, a lovely, unassuming restaurant specializing in both Thai cuisine and sushi. As you sit in the warm glow of lights at a table with a white tablecloth and gaze at charming photographs of Thailand, you will be glad you came. In an age of frantic reservations, long waits and hostesses resembling bouncers in attitude, Taste of Thailand puts the "rest" in "restaurant". Combining a quiet ambience, a gracious wait staff, and no wait for seating, this restaurant is more my speed.

You will not have to run to the gym after eating at Taste of Thailand, as the food is almost invariably light and healthy. The vegetable rolls, rice wraps enfolding lettuce, sprouts, mint, tofu and cilantro, are steamed and served with a sweet and spicy plum sauce. Crispy spring rolls, containing crunchy cabbage and rice noodles, are served with a clear, sweet sauce with crushed peanuts. Taste of Thailand's chicken and rice soup is simple with a clear broth, shredded carrot and a hint of green onion.

However, the Lorna Roll, named for the restaurant's street address, met a deep, primal need I didn't even know I had. Foregoing the traditional nori in favor of soy paper, this sushi roll contained snow crab, cucumber, and crunchy tempura. It was topped with fresh salmon and strips of avocado and crowned with red tobiko, a delicacy of flying fish roe. This roll was drizzled with kabayaki sauce, made of soy sauce, sugar and sweet rice wine. I don't have any problem that 10 years of therapy and a Lorna Roll can't cure.

Besides their respectably diverse sushi menu, Taste of Thailand has an extensive menu of Thai cuisine, including Pad Thai (pronounced "pud tie"), stir-fried rice noodles topped with scrambled egg, fish sauce, tamarind juice, red chili pepper and bean sprouts. These gentle flavors are offset by the crunchiness of crushed, roasted peanuts.

With moderate prices, excellent service, an atmosphere worthy of a romantic date, and top-quality ingredients, you will want to return again and again. Move over, Surin West. Taste of Thailand is here to play!

4.5 Kudzu