The Waysider

Tuscaloosa, AL
$7-$9 Lunch Entrees
$3-$5 Breakfast Entrees

Nobody can say when The Waysider first opened. A waitress stated, "It's the oldest restaurant in Tuscaloosa, open more than 51 years!" An elderly resident swears it was running during the 50's. The Business License Department couldn't verify this, since their records don't go back that far. My theory: The tiny, vividly red house was created in the beginning when God said, "Let there be The Waysider!" Whether it's as old as Methuselah or almost as old as The Machine, locals agree The Waysider's a Tuscaloosa landmark, an old school institution serving up home-cooked breakfasts since time immemorial.

Go past The Waysider on Greensboro. Take a right ... onto the train tracks running down the street. Don't get hit by a train. Take another right, and you'll see the parking log. The Waysider's open for breakfast every day except Monday and for lunch Tuesday through Friday. Last year, The Waysider made Esquire magazine's "Top 59 Breakfast Places in American".

Coach "Bear" Bryant, who knew a real Southern breakfast when he ate one, was a regular at The Waysider. The interior screams "ROLL TIDE!" louder than any Alabama cheerleader. Every square inch of every wall's plastered with Crimson Tide memorabilia. Even the carpet's crimson. Diners sit on chairs with crimson vinyl seats at well-worn, old fashioned tables, taking in news and sports with their morning coffee. Bright yellow mums decorate every table. Peering behind containers of honey and butter, I spotted ceramic salt and pepper shakers in the form of Alabama football jerseys.

The hardworking waitresses really know their customers, many of whom started eating at The Waysider when Moby Dick was a minnow. They know who's vacationing, who's been hospitalized, who's been cheatin', and who's having twins. They "Sweetie" and "Hon" the diners like newborn babies. The customers know one another as well, be they students, football fans or retirees. People who moved away years ago will return just to eat at The Waysider, reliving childhood memories of anthropomorphic pancakes.

No even glancing at the menu, I ordered the ($5.00!!!) breakfast special. The service was especially fast for a packed-out Tuesday morning. Within seconds, I received my coffee. It was slightly weak for my taste, but fresh and smooth. My maternal waitress kept it coming! A plate of two perfectly cooked, over-medium eggs, three juicy, robust link sausages, and grits followed close on the heels of my coffee.

During the murder trial int he movie, My Cousin Vinny, a witness testifies: "No self respectin' Southerner uses instant grits. I take pride in my grits." Although each non-instant "grit" took 20 minutes to cook, mine were a bit thin. Accompanying my meal were biscuits which I underestimated at first. Then I realized these slightly square, piping hot creations didn't come from a can. They were fluffy and contained real buttermilk! They were so good I asked for a to-go box. I just couldn't Bear to leave them behind! My waitress, her Southern drawl lengthening, smugly boasted, "Yeeaah, we serve about 10,000 of those on Sundays. " After paying, I drove directly to the lap pool to swim off the ten million calories I had consumed, the whole time thinking, "It was worth every bite."

The Waysider's affordability is only rivaled by their authenticity. In his 1993 book, Southern Food, John Egerton quotes its former owner, Archie Farr: "Places like this are getting hard to find. And they're even harder to keep going... But [the chains] don't have the pride that we do, and their mass production can't match our freshness and quality. All that plastic food in a plastic environment won't last. Southern food will eventually come back." Amen, y'all.

3.5 Kudzu

The Silvertron Cafe

Birmingham, AL
$8-$11 Lunch and Dinner Entrees
$5-$7 Breakfast Entrees

I've never been a breakfast person. I just don't want to eat anything in the morning. Granted, I'll strap on the feed bag any time after 12:00 p.m., but prior to that ... no appetite. Then I read that The Silvertron Cafe won Birmingham Weekly's "Best Breakfast" in 2009. I said, "Ha! We'll see about that!"

The Silvertron Cafe, named for the television repair shop from which it was converted, first opened in 1986. Its first owner, Alan Potts was beloved by the local community. After his tragic death in 2006, the restaurant closed temporarily, reopening in 2007 under its current owner, Marco Morosini.

I went to Silvertron on a Saturday morning. Walking through Birmingham's historic Forest Park district, I enjoyed the "football weather", as cool as the other side of the pillow. White lights, which must provide a winsome twinkle at night, were strung under the front awning. Inside, I first noticed the artwork, pieces sold by Silvertron's neighbor, the Naked Art Gallery. My favorites were the vivid, folksy paintings by Tina Kirk, which provide an eclectic, unpretentious feel to the retro atmosphere. Built during the 1920's, the building's high, embossed tin ceilings, hanging fans and intricate crown molding transported me back to a gentler, simpler time. Accent walls provided splashes of color reminiscent of ripe watermelon. I sat by windows lined with slender, cobalt blue glass bottles. Listening to Otis Redding hits, my heart rate slowed to a 1964 pace. This was a place for lingering.

The service was prompt and the menu impressive. Silvertron diverges from the commonplace, offering hummus, quiche, and lasagna specials daily. Exploring my brunch menu, I noted Silvertron's affordability and diverse selection, the stress of the current recession falling away. The menu listed several creative variations on the typical Eggs Benedict, as if the word "typical" could ever do this chef d'oeuvre justice. These included Florentine, South-Western, Crab & Shrimp Cake, Yellowfin Tuna, and Steak Benedict. Although tempted by the traditional New Orleans dish, Grillades & Grits, I decided I wasn't hungry enough for such a large meal. So I ordered the Crab & Shrimp Cake Benedict. And a side sausage patty. And a biscuit. Oh, and an order of "fancy grits".

Since childhood, I have bewailed restaurants' inability to properly poach an egg. It is risky to order them, as they usually turn out either undercooked or overcooked, both of which are disgusting. The Silvertron Cafe, however, has evidently perfected the art of poaching an egg. Those perching atop the croquettes boasted golden, creamy yolks enveloped in firm whites. The generous crab and shrimp cakes were outstanding, made colorful by fresh red peppers and celery. Although initially dubious when reading "Creole hollandaise" on the menu, the reality made me a believer. Not for the faint-of-taste-bud, this delectable sauce revealed a kick in the form of fiery, ground red pepper. It took a great deal of self-control not to lick the plate. With all this pizazz, the humble English muffin at the bottom seemed superfluous.

The sausage was mild yet flavorful, and the golden biscuit was so buttery it didn't need butter (did I really say something didn't need butter?!). However, the "fancy grits" surpassed them both. Coarsely ground but cooked to creaminess, they were mixed with cheese, bacon, cheese, tomatoes, and cheese.

Mimosas and Bloody Marys are featured during breakfast and Sunday brunch. With pasta and wine specials on Mondays, Tex-Mex and Margarita specials on Tuesdays, and Martini specials on Wednesdays, this cafe definitely has something for everyone. For a dose of retro goodness at a price that can't be beat, eat at The Silvertron Cafe. I promise you'll get more than you'll pay for.

4.5 Kudzu